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CHAPTER I.

[1] HAVING completed the description of Peloponnesus, which we said was the first and least of the peninsulas of which Greece consists, we must next proceed to those which are continuous with it.¹

We described the second to be that which joins Megaris to the Peloponnesus [so that Crommyon belongs to Megaris, and not to the Corinthians];² the third to be that which is situated near the former, comprising Attica and Boeotia, some part of Phocis, and of the Locri Epicnemidii. Of these we are now to speak.

Eudoxus says, that if we imagine a straight line to be drawn towards the east from the Ceraunian Mountains to Sunium, the promontory of Attica, it would leave, on the right hand, to the south, the whole of Peloponnesus, and on the left, to the north, the continuous coast from the Ceraunian Mountains to the Crisaean Gulf, and the whole of Megaris and Attica. He is of opinion that the shore which extends from Sunium to the Isthmus, would not have so great a curvature, nor have so great a bend, if, to this shore, were not added the parts continuous with the Isthmus and extending to the Hermionic Bay and Acté; that in the same manner the shore, from the Ceraunian Mountains to the Gulf of Corinth, has a similar bend, so as to make a curvature, forming within it a sort of gulf, where Rhium and Antirrhium contracting together give it this figure. The same is the case with the shore about Crissa and the recess, where the Crissaean Sea terminates.³

[2] As this is the description given by Eudoxus, a mathematician, skilled in the delineations of figures and the inclinations of places, acquainted also with the places themselves, we must consider the sides of Attica and Megaris, extending from Sunium as far as the Isthmus, to be curved, although slightly so. About the middle of the above-mentioned line⁴ is the Piraeus, the naval arsenal of the Athenians. It is distant from Schoenus, at the Isthmus, about 350 stadia; from Sunium 330. The distance from the Piraeus to Pagae⁵ and from the Piraeus to Schoenus is nearly the same, yet the former is said to exceed the latter by 10 stadia. After having doubled Sunium, the navigation along the coast is to the north with a declination to the west.

[3] Acte (Attica) is washed by two seas; it is at first narrow, then it widens towards the middle, yet it, nevertheless, takes a lunated bend towards Oropus in Boeotia, having the convex side towards the sea. This is the second, the eastern side of Attica.

The remaining side is that to the north, extending from the territory of Oropus towards the west, as far as Megaris, and consists of the mountainous tract of Attica, having a variety of names, and dividing Boeotia from Attica; so that, as I have before remarked, Boeotia, by being connected with two seas, becomes the Isthmus of the third peninsula, which we have mentioned before, and this Isthmus includes within it the Peloponnesus, Megaris, and Attica. For this reason therefore the present Attica was called by a play upon the words Acta and Actica, because the greatest part of it lies under the mountains, and borders on the sea; it is narrow, and stretches forwards a considerable length as far as Sunium. We shall therefore resume the description of these sides, beginning from the sea-coast, at the point where we left off.

[4] After Crommyon, rising above Attica, are the rocks called Scironides, which afford no passage along the sea-side. Over them, however, is a road which leads to Megara and Attica from the Isthmus. The road approaches so near the rocks that in many places it runs along the edge of precipices, for the overhanging mountain is of great height, and impassable.

Here is laid the scene of the fable of Sciron, and the Pityocamptes, or the pine-breaker, one of those who infested with their robberies the above-mentioned mountainous tract. They were slain by Theseus.

The wind Argestes,⁶ which blows from the left with violence, from these summits is called by the Athenians Sciron.

After the rocks Scironides there projects the promontory Minoa, forming the harbour of Nisaea. Nisaea is the arsenal of Megara, and distant 18 stadia from the city; it is joined to it by walls on each side.⁷ This also had the name of Minoa.

[5] In former times the Ionians occupied this country, and were also in possession of Attica, before the time of the building of Megara, wherefore the poet does not mention these places by any appropriate name, but when he calls all those dwelling in Attica, Athenians, he comprehends these also in the common appellation, regarding them as Athenians; so when, in the Catalogue of the Ships, he says,

And they who occupied Athens, a well-built city,⁸

Il. ii. 546. we must understand the present Megarenses also, as having taken a part in the expedition. The proof of this is, that Attica was, in former times, called Ionia, and Ias, and when the poet says,

There the Boeoti, and Iaones,⁹

Il. xiii. 685. he means the Athenians. But of this Ionia Megaris was a part.

[6] Besides, the Peloponnesians and Ionians having had frequent disputes respecting their boundaries, on which Crommyonia also was situated, assembled and agreed upon a spot of the Isthmus itself, on which they erected a pillar having an inscription on the part towards Peloponnesus,

THIS IS PELOPONNESUS, NOT IONIA;

and on the side towards Megara,

THIS IS NOT PELOPONNESUS, BUT IONIA.

Although those, who wrote on the history of Attica¹⁰ differ in many respects, yet those of any note agree in this, that when there were four Pandionidae, Aegeus, Lycus, Pallas, and Nisus; and when Attica was divided into four portions, Nisus obtained, by lot, Megaris, and founded Nisaea. Philochorus says, that his government extended from the Isthmus to Pythium,¹¹ but according to Andron, as far as Eleusis and the Thriasian plain.

Since, then, different writers give different accounts of the division of the country into four parts, it is enough to adduce these lines from Sophocles where Aegeus says,

My father determined that I should go away to Acte, having assigned to me, as the elder, the best part of the land; to Lycus, the opposite garden of Euboea; for Nisus he selects the irregular tract of the shore of Sciron; and the rugged Pallas, breeder of giants, obtained by lot the part to the south.¹²

Such are the proofs which are adduced to show that Megaris was a part of Attica.

[7] After the return of the Heraclidae, and the partition of the country, many of the former possessors were banished from their own land by the Heraclidae, and by the Dorians, who came with them, and migrated to Attica. Among these was Melanthus, the king of Messene. He was voluntarily appointed king of the Athenians, after having overcome in single combat, Xanthus, the king of the Boeotians. When Attica became populous by the accession of fugitives, the Heraclidae were alarmed, and invaded Attica, chiefly at the instigation of the Corinthians and Messenians; the former of whom were influenced by proximity of situation, the latter by the circumstance that Codrus, the son of Melanthus, was at that time king of Attica. They were, however, defeated in battle and relinquished the whole of the country, except the territory of Megara, of which they kept possession, and founded the city Megara, where they introduced as inhabitants Dorians in place of Ionians. They destroyed the pillar also which was the boundary of the country of the Ionians and the Peloponnesians.

[8] The city of the Megarenses, after having experienced many changes, still subsists. It once had schools of philosophers, who had the name of the Megaric sect. They succeeded Euclides, the Socratic philosopher, who was by birth a Megarensian, in the same manner as the Eleiaci, among whom was Pyrrhon, who succeeded Phaedon, the Eleian, who was also a Socratic philosopher, and as the Eretriaci succeeded Menedemus the Eretrean.

Megaris, like Attica, is very sterile, and the greater part of it is occupied by what are called the Oneii mountains, a kind of ridge, which, extending from the Scironides rocks to Boeotia and to Cithaeron, separates the sea at Nisaea from that near Page, called the Alcyonian Sea.

[9] In sailing from Nisaea to Attica there lie, in the course of the voyage, five small islands. Then succeeds Salamis, which is about 70, and according to others, 80, stadia in length. It has two cities of the same name. The ancient city, which looked towards Aegina, and to the south, as Aeschylus has described it;

Aegina lies towards the blasts of the south:

it is uninhabited. The other is situated in a bay on a spot of a peninsular form contiguous to Attica. In former times it had other names, for it was called Sciras, and Cychreia, from certain heroes; from the former Minerva is called Sciras; hence also Scira, a place in Attica; Episcirosis, a religions rite; and Scirophorion, one of the months. From Cychreia the serpent Cychrides had its name, which Hesiod says Cychreus bred, and Eurylochus ejected, because it infested the island, but that Ceres admitted it into Eleusis, and it became her attendant. Salamis was called also Pityussa from pitys, the pine tree. The island obtained its renown from the Aeacidae, who were masters of it, particularly from Ajax, the son of Telamon, and from the defeat of Xerxes by the Greeks in a battle on the coast, and by his flight to his own country. The Aeginetae participated in the glory of that engagement, both as neighbours, and as having furnished a considerable naval force. [In Salamis is the river Bocarus, now called Bocalia.]¹³

[10] At present the Athenians possess the island Salamis. In former times they disputed the possession of it with the Megarians. Some allege, that Pisistratus, others that Solon, inserted in the Catalogue of Ships immediately after this verse,

Ajax conducted from Salamis twelve vessels,¹⁴

Il. ii. 557. the following words,

And stationed them by the side of the Athenian forces;

and appealed to the poet as a witness, that the island originally belonged to the Athenians. But this is not admitted by the critics, because many other lines testify the contrary. For why does Ajax appear at the extremity of the line not with the Athenians, but with the Thessalians under the command of Protesilaus;

There were the vessels of Ajax, and Protesilaus.¹⁵

Il. xiii. 681. And Agamemnon, in the Review¹⁶ of the troops,

found the son of Peteus, Menestheus, the tamer of horses, standing, and around were the Athenians skilful in war: near stood the wily Ulysses, and around him and at his side, the ranks of the Cephalleni¹⁷

and again, respecting Ajax and the Salaminii;

he came to the Ajaces,¹⁸

and near them,

Idomeneus on the other side amidst the Cretans,¹⁹

Il. iii. 230. not Menestheus. The Athenians then seem to have alleged some such evidence as this from Homer as a pretext, and the Megarians to have replied in an opposite strain of this kind;

Ajax conducted ships from Salamis, from Polichna, from Aegirussa, from Nisaea, and from Tripodes,²⁰

which are places in Megaris, of which Tripodes has the name of Tripodiscium, situated near the present forum of Megara.

[11] Some say, that Salamis is unconnected with Attica, because the priestess of Minerva Polias, who may not eat the new cheese of Attica, but the produce only of a foreign land, yet uses the Salaminian cheese. But this is a mistake, for she uses that which is brought from other islands, that are confessedly near Attica, for the authors of this custom considered all produce as foreign which was brought over sea.

It seems as if anciently the present Salamis was a separate state, and that Megara was a part of Attica.

On the sea-coast, opposite to Salamis, the boundaries of Megara and Attica are two mountains called Cerata, or Horns.²¹

[12] Next is the city Eleusis,²² in which is the temple of the Eleusinian Ceres, and the Mystic Enclosure (Secos),²³ which Ictinus built,²⁴ capable of containing the crowd of a theatre. It was this person that built²⁵ the Parthenon in the Acropolis, in honour of Minerva, when Pericles was the superintendent of the public works. The city is enumerated among the demi, or burghs.

[13] Then follows the Thriasian plain, and the coast, a demus of the same name,²⁶ then the promontory Amphiale,²⁷ above which is a stone quarry; and then the passage across the sea to Salamis, of about 2 stadia, which Xerxes endeavoured to fill up with heaps of earth, but the sea-fight and the flight of the Persians occurred before he had accomplished it.

There also are the Pharmacussae,²⁸ two small islands, in the larger of which is shown the tomb of Circe.

[14] Above this coast is a mountain called Corydallus, and the demus Corydalleis: then the harbour of Phoron, (Robbers,) and Psyttalia, a small rocky desert island, which, according to some writers, is the eye-sore of the Piraeus.

Near it is Atalanta, of the same name as that between Euboea and the Locri; and another small island similar to Psyttalia; then the Piraeus, which is also reckoned among the demi, and the Munychia.

[15] The Munychia is a hill in the shape of a peninsula, hollow, and a great part of it excavated both by nature and art, so as to serve for dwellings, with an entrance by a narrow opening. Beneath it are three harbours. Formerly the Munychia was surrounded by a wall, and occupied by dwellings, nearly in the same manner as the city of the Rhodians, comprehending within the circuit of the walls the Piraeus and the harbours full of materials for ship-building; here also was the armoury, the work of Philon. The naval station was capable of receiving the four hundred vessels; which was the smallest number the Athenians were in the habit of keeping in readiness for sea. With this wall were connected the legs, that stretched out from the Asty. These were the long walls, 40 stadia in length, joining the Asty²⁹ to the Piraeus. But in consequence of frequent wars, the wall and the fortification of the Munychia were demolished; the Piraeus was contracted to a small town, extending round the harbours and the temple of Jupiter Soter. The small porticoes of the temple contain admirable paintings, the work of celebrated artists, and the hypaethrum, statues. The long walls also were destroyed, first demolished by the Lacedaemonians, and afterwards by the Romans, when Sylla took the Piraeus and the Asty by siege.³⁰

[16] What is properly the Asty is a rock, situated in a plain, with dwellings around it. Upon the rock is the temple of Minerva, and the ancient shrine of Minerva Polias, in which is the never-extinguished lamp; and the Parthenon, built by Ictinus, in which is the Minerva, in ivory, the work of Pheidias.

When, however, I consider the multitude of objects, so celebrated and far-famed, belonging to this city, I am reluctant to enlarge upon them, lest what I write should depart too far from the proposed design of this work.³¹ For the words of Hegesias³² occur to me;

I behold the acropolis, there is the symbol of the great trident;³³ I see Eleusis; I am initiated in the sacred mysteries; that is Leocorium;³⁴ this the Theseium.³⁵ To describe all is beyond my power, for Attica is the chosen residence of the gods; and the possession of heroes its progenitors.

Yet this very writer mentions only one of the remarkable things to be seen in the Acropolis. Polemo Periegetes³⁶ however composed four books on the subject of the sacred offerings which were there. Hegesias is similarly sparing of remarks on other parts of the city, and of the territory: after speaking of Eleusis, one of the hundred and seventy demi, to which as they say four are to be added, he mentions no other by name.

[17] Many, if not all the demi, have various fabulous tales and histories connected with them: with Aphidna is connected the rape of Helen by Theseus, the sack of the place by the Dioscuri, and the recovery of their sister; with Marathon, the battle with the Persians; at Rhamnus was the statue of Nemesis, which, according to some writers, is the work of Diodotus, according to others, of Agoracritus, the Parian, so well executed, both as to size and beauty, as to rival the art of Pheidias. Deceleia was the rendezvous of the Peloponnesians in the Decelic war. From Phyle Thrasybulus brought back the people to the Piraeus, and thence to the Asty. Thus also much might be told respecting many other places; the Leocorium, the Theseium, and the Lyceum have their own fables, and the Olympicum, called also the Olympium, which the king, who dedicated it, left, at his death, half finished; so also much might be said of the Academia. of the gardens of the philosophers, of the Odeium,³⁷ of the Stoa Poecile, [or painted Portico,] and of the temples in tile city, all of which contain the works of illustrious artists.

[18] The account would be much longer if we were to inquire who were the founders of the city from the time of Cecrops, for writers do not agree, as is evident from the names of persons and of places. For example, Attica,³⁸ they say, was derived from Actaeon; Atthis, and Attica, from Atthis, the daughter of Cranaus, from whom the inhabitants had the name Cranai; Mopsopia from Mopsopus; Ionia from Ion, the son of Xuthus; Poseidonia and Athenae, from the deities of that name. We have said, that the nation of the Pelasgi seem to have come into this country in the course of their migrations, and were called from their wanderings, by the Attici, Pelargi, or storks.

[19] In proportion as an earnest desire is excited to ascertain the truth about remarkable places and events, and in proportion as writers, on these subjects, are more numerous, so much the more is an author exposed to censure, who does not make himself master of what has been written. For example, in the Collection of the Rivers, Callimachus says, that he should laugh at the person, who would venture to describe the Athenian virgins as

drinking of the pure waters of the Eridanus,

from which even the herds would turn away. There are indeed fountains of water, pure and fit for drinking, it is said, without the gate called Diochares, near the Lyceium; formerly also a fountain was erected near it, which afforded a large supply of excellent water; but if it is not so at present, is it at all strange, that a fountain supplying abundance of pure and potable water at one period of time, should afterwards have the property of its waters altered?

In subjects, however, which are so numerous, we cannot enter into detail; yet they are not so entirely to be passed over in silence as to abstain from giving a condensed account of some of them.

[20] It will suffice then to add, that, according to Philochorus, when the country was devastated on the side of the sea by the Carians, and by land by the Boeotians, whom they called Aones, Cecrops first settled a large body of people in twelve cities, the names of which were Cecropia, Tetrapolis, Epacria, Deceleia, Eleusis, Aplhidnae, (although some persons write it in the plural number, Aphidnae,) Thoricus, Brauron, Cytherus, Sphettus, Cephisia [Phalerus]. Again, at a subsequent period, Theseus is said to have collected the inhabitants of the twelve cities into one, the present city.

Formerly, the Athenians were governed by kings; they afterwards changed the government to a democracy; then tyrants were their masters, as Pisistratus and his sons; afterwards there was an oligarchy both of the four hundred and of the thirty tyrants, whom the Lacedaemonii set over them; these were expelled by the Athenians, who retained the form of a democracy, till the Romans established their empire. For, although they were somewhat oppressed by the Macedonian kings, so as to be compelled to obey them, yet they preserved entire the same form of government. Some say, that the government was very well administered during a period of ten years, at the time that Casander was king of the Macedonians. For this person, although in other respects he was disposed to be tyrannical, yet, when lie was master of the city, treated the Athenians with kindness and generosity. He placed at the head of the citizens Demetrius the Phalerean, a disciple of Theophrastus the philosopher, who, far from dissolving, restored the democracy. This appears from his memoirs, which he composed concerning this mode of government. But so much hatred and dislike prevailed against anything connected with oligarchy, that, after the death of Casander, he was obliged to fly into Egypt.³⁹ The insurgents pulled down more than three hundred of his statues, which were melted down, and according to some were cast into chamber-pots. The Romans, after their conquest, finding them governed by a democracy,⁴⁰ maintained their independence and liberty. During the Mithridatic war, the king set over them such tyrants as he pleased. Aristio, who was the most powerful of these persons, oppressed the city; he was taken by Sylla, the Roman general, after a siege,⁴¹ and put to death. The citizens were pardoned, and, to this time, the city enjoys liberty, and is respected by the Romans.

[21] Next to the Piraeus is the demus Phalereis, on the succeeding line of coast, then Halimusii, Aexoneis, Alaeeis, the Aexonici, Anagyrasii; then Theoris, Lampesis; Aegilieis, Anaphlystii, Azenieis; these extend as far as the promontory Sunium. Between the above-mentioned demi is a long promontory, Zoster,⁴² the first after the Aexoneis; then another promontory after Thoreis, Astypalaea; in the front of the former of these is an island, Phabra,⁴³ and of the latter an island, Eleüssa,⁴⁴ opposite the Aexoneis is Hydrussa. About Anaphlystum is the Paneum, and the temple of Venus Colias. Here, they say, were thrown up by the waves the last portions of the wrecks of the vessels after the naval engagement with the Persians near Salamis, of which remains Apollo predicted,

The women of Colias shall shudder at the sight of oars.

In front of these places lies off, at no great distance, the island Belbina; and the rampart of Patroclus; but most of these islands are uninhabited.

[22] On doubling the promontory at Sunium, we meet with Sunium, a considerable demus; then Thoricus, next a demus called Potamus, from which the inhabitants are called Potamii; next Prasia,⁴⁵ Steiria, Brauron, where is the temple of Diana Brauronia, Halae Araphenides, where is the temple of Diana Tauropola; then Myrrhinus, Probalinthus, Marathon, where Miltiades entirely destroyed the army of Datis the Persian, without waiting for the Lacedaemonians, who deferred setting out till the full moon. There is laid the scene of the fable of the Marathonian bull, which Theseus killed.

Next to Marathon is Tricorynthus, then Rhamnus, where is the temple of Nemesis; then Psaphis, a city of the Oropii. Somewhere about this spot is the Amphiaraeum, an oracle once in repute, to which Amphiareus fled, as Sophocles says,

The dusty Theban soil opened and received him with his armour, and the four-horse chariot.

Oropus has frequently been a subject of contention, for it is situated on the confines of Attica and Boeotia.

In front of this coast, before Thoricum and Sunium, is the island Helena; it is rocky and uninhabited, extending in length about 60 stadia, which, they say, the poet mentions in the words, in which Alexander addresses Helen,

Not when first I carried thee away from the pleasant Lacedaemon, across the deep, and in the island Cranaë embraced thee.⁴⁶

For Cranaë, from the kind of intercourse which took place there, is now called Helena. Next to Helena,⁴⁷ Eulboea⁴⁸ lies in front of the following tract of coast. It is long and narrow, and stretching along the continent like Helena. From Sunium to the southern point of Euboea, which is called Leuce Acte,⁴⁹ [or, the white coast,] is a voyage of 300 stadia, but we shall speak hereafter of Euboea.

It would be tedious to recite the names of the Demi of Attica in the inland parts, on account of their number.⁵⁰

[23] Among the mountains which are most celebrated, are the Hymettus, Brilessus, Ly$cabettus, Parnes, and Corydallus.⁵¹ Near the city are excellent quarries of Hymettian and Pentelic marble. The Hymettus produces also the finest honey. The silver mines in Attica were at first of importance, but are now exhausted. The workmen, when the mines yielded a bad return to their labour, committed to the furnace the old refuse and scoria, and hence obtained very pure silver, for the former workmen had carried on the process in the furnace unskilfully.

Although the Attic is the best of all the kinds of honey, yet by far the best of the Attic honey is that found in the country of the silver mines,⁵² which they call acapniston, or unsmoked, from the mode of its preparation.

[24] Among the rivers is the Cephissus, having its source from the Trinemeis, it flows through the plain (where are the Gephyra, and the Gephyrismi) between the legs or walls extending from the Asty to the Piraeus, and empties itself into the Plalericum. Its character is chiefly that of a winter torrent, for in the summer time it fails altogether. Such also, for the most part, is the Ilissus, which flows from the other side of the Asty to the same coast, from the parts above Agra, and the Lyceium, and the fountain celebrated by Plato in the Phaedrus. So much then respecting Attica.

Geography. Strabo. Hans Claude Hamilton (Translator), William Falconer (Translator). London. 1854-1857.

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Current edition Perseus

Geography (English) (Strabo. The Geography of Strabo, Vols. 1-3. Hamilton, Hans Claude, translator; Falconer, William, translator. London: Henry G. Bohn, 1854-1857.)

Editions (1)

Γεωγραφικά Perseus (Strabo. Strabonis Geographica, Vols. 1-3. Meineke, August, editor. Leipzig: Teubner. 1877.) — 9.1 focus

[1] περιωδευκόσι δὲ τὴν Πελοπόννησον, ἣν πρώτην ἔφαμεν καὶ ἐλαχίστην τῶν συντιθεισῶν τὴν Ἑλλάδα χερρονήσων, ἐφεξῆς ἂν εἴη τὰς συνεχεῖς ἐπελθεῖν. ἦν δὲ δευτέρα μὲν ἡ προστιθεῖσα τῇ Πελοποννήσῳ τὴν Μεγαρίδα, ὥστε τὸν Κρομμυῶνα Μεγαρέων εἶναι καὶ μὴ Κορινθίων· τρίτη δὲ ἡ πρὸς ταύτῃ προσλαμβάνουσα τὴν Ἀττικὴν καὶ τὴν Βοιωτίαν καὶ τῆς Φωκίδος τι μέρος καὶ τῶν Ἐπικνημιδίων Λοκρῶν. περὶ τούτων οὖν λεκτέον. φησὶ δʼ Εὔδοξος, εἴ τις νοήσειεν ἀπὸ τῶν Κεραυνίων ὀρῶν ἐπὶ Σούνιον τὸ τῆς Ἀττικῆς ἄκρον ἐπὶ τὰ πρὸς ἕω μέρη τεταμένην εὐθεῖαν, ἐν δεξιᾷ μὲν ἀπολείψειν τὴν Πελοπόννησον ὅλην πρὸς νότον, ἐν ἀριστερᾷ δὲ καὶ πρὸς τὴν ἄρκτον τὴν ἀπὸ τῶν Κεραυνίων ὀρῶν συνεχῆ παραλίαν μέχρι τοῦ Κρισαίου κόλπου καὶ τῆς Μεγαρίδος καὶ συμπάσης τῆς Ἀττικῆς· νομίζει δʼ οὐδʼ ἂν κ οιλαίνεσθαι οὕτως τὴν ᾐόνα τὴν ἀπὸ Σουνίου μέχρι τοῦ Ἰσθμοῦ ὥστε μεγάλην ἔχειν ἐπιστροφήν, εἰ μὴ προσῆν τῇ ᾐόνι ταύτῃ καὶ τὰ συνεχῆ τῷ Ἰσθμῷ χωρία τὰ ποιοῦντα τὸν κόλπον τὸν Ἑρμιονικὸν καὶ τὴν Ἀκτήν· ὡς δʼ αὕ τως οὐδʼ ἂν τὴν ἀπὸ τῶν Κεραυνίων ἐπὶ τὸν Κορινθιακὸν κόλπον ἔχειν τινὰ τοσαύ την ἐπιστροφὴν ὥστε κοιλαίνεσθαι κολποειδῶς καθʼ αὑ τήν, εἰ μὴ τὸ Ῥίον καὶ τὸ Ἀντίρριον συναγόμενα εἰς στενὸν ἐποίει τὴν ἔμφασιν ταύτην· ὁμοίως δὲ καὶ τὰ περι έχοντα τὸν μυχόν, εἰς ἃ καταλήγειν συμβαίνει τὴν ταύτῃ θάλατταν.

[2] οὕτω δʼ εἰρηκότος Εὐδόξου, μαθηματικοῦ ἀνδρὸς καὶ σχημάτων ἐμπείρου καὶ κλιμάτων καὶ τοὺς τόπους τούτους εἰδότος, δεῖ νοεῖν τήνδε τὴν πλευρὰν τῆς Ἀττικῆς σὺν τῇ Μεγαρίδι τὴν ἀπὸ Σουνίου μέχρι Ἰσθμοῦ κοίλην μὲν ἀλλʼ ἐπὶ μικρόν. ἐνταῦθα δʼ ἐστὶ κατὰ μέσην που τὴν λεχθεῖσαν γραμμὴν ὁ Πειραιεὺς τὸ τῶν Ἀθηνῶν ἐπίνειον. διέχει γὰρ τοῦ μὲν Σχοινοῦντος τοῦ κατὰ τὸν Ἰσθμὸν περὶ τριακοσίους πεντήκοντα σταδίους, τοῦ δὲ Σουνίου τριάκοντα καὶ τριακοσίους· τόςον πώς ἐστι διάστημα καὶ τὸ ἐπὶ Πηγὰς ἀπὸ τοῦ Πει ραιῶς, ὅσονπερ καὶ ἐπὶ Σχοινοῦντα· δέκα δʼ ὅμως στα δίοις πλεονάζειν φασί. κάμψαντι δὲ τὸ Σούνιον πρὸς ἄρκτον μὲν ὁ πλοῦς, ἐκκλίνων δὲ πρὸς δύσιν.

[3] ἀκτὴ δʼ ἐστὶν ἡ Ἀττικὴ ἀμφιθάλαττος, στενὴ τὸ πρῶτον, εἶτʼ εἰς τὴν μεσόγαιαν πλατύνεται, μηνοειδῆ δʼ οὐδὲν ἧττον ἐπιστροφὴν λαμβάνει πρὸς Ὠρωπὸν τῆς Βοιωτίας τὸ κυρτὸν ἔχουσαν πρὸς θαλάττῃ· τοῦτο δʼ ἐστὶ τὸ δεύτερον πλευρὸν ἑῷον τῆς Ἀττικῆς. τὸ δὲ λοιπὸν ἤδη τὸ προσάρκτιόν ἐστι πλευρὸν ἀπὸ τῆς Ὠρωπίας ἐπὶ δύσιν παρατεῖνον μέχρι τῆς Μεγαρίδος, ἡ Ἀττικὴ ὀρεινή, πολυώνυμός τις, διείργουσα τὴν Βοιωτίαν ἀπὸ τῆς Ἀττικῆς· ὥσθʼ, ὅπερ εἶπον ἐν τοῖς πρόσθεν, ἰσθμὸν γίνεσθαι τὴν Βοιωτίαν ἀμφιθάλαττον οὖσαν τῆς τρίτης χερρονήσου τῆς λεχθείσης, ἀπολαμβάνοντα ἐντὸς τὰ πρὸς τῇ Πελοποννήσῳ τήν τε Μεγαρίδα καὶ τὴν Ἀττικήν. διὰ δὲ τοῦτο καὶ Ἀκτήν φασι λεχθῆναι τὸ παλαιὸν καὶ Ἀκτικὴν τὴν νῦν Ἀττικὴν παρονομασθεῖσαν, ὅτι τοῖς ὄρεσιν ὑποπέπτωκε τὸ πλεῖστον μέρος αὐτῆς ἁλιτενὲς καὶ στενόν, μήκει δʼ ἀξιολόγῳ κεχρημένον, προπεπτωκὸς μέχρι Σουνίου. ταύτας οὖν διέξιμεν ἀναλα βόντες πάλιν ἀπὸ τῆς παραλίας ἀφʼ ἧσπερ ἀπελίπομεν.

[4] μετὰ δὴ Κρομμυῶνα ὑπέρκεινται τῆς Ἀττικῆς αἱ Σκιρωνίδες πέτραι πάροδον οὐκ ἀπολείπουσαι πρὸς θαλάττῃ· ὑπὲρ αὐτῶν δʼ ἐστὶν ἡ ὁδὸς ἡ ἐπὶ Μεγάρων καὶ τῆς Ἀττικῆς ἀπὸ τοῦ Ἰσθμοῦ· οὕτω δὲ σφόδρα πλησιάζει ταῖς πέτραις ἡ ὁδὸς ὥστε πολλαχοῦ καὶ παράκρημνός ἐστι διὰ τὸ ὑπερκείμενον ὄρος δύσβατόν τε καὶ ὑψηλὸν ὄν· ἐνταῦθα δὲ μυθεύεται τὰ περὶ τοῦ Σκείρωνος καὶ τοῦ Πιτυοκάμπτου τῶν λῃζομένων τὴν λεχθεῖσαν ὀρεινήν, οὓς καθεῖλε Θησεύς. ἀπὸ δὲ τῶν ἄκρων τούτων καταιγίζοντα σκαιὸν τὸν ἀργέστην σκίρωνα προσηγορεύκασιν Ἀθηναῖοι. μετὰ δὲ τὰς Σκιρωνίδας πέτρας ἄκρα πρόκειται Μινῴα ποιοῦσα τὸν ἐν τῇ Νισαίᾳ λιμένα. ἡ δὲ Νίσαια ἐπίνειόν ἐστιν τῶν Μεγάρων δεκαοκτὼ σταδίους τῆς πόλεως διέχον, σκέλεσιν ἑκατέρωθεν συναπτόμενον πρὸς αὐτήν· ἐκαλεῖτο δὲ καὶ τοῦτο Μινῴα.

[5] τὸ παλαιὸν μὲν οὖν Ἴωνες εἶχον τὴν χώραν ταύτην οἵπερ καὶ τὴν Ἀττικήν, οὔπω τῶν Μεγάρων ἐκτισμένων· διόπερ οὐδʼ ὁ ποιητὴς μέμνηται τῶν τόπων τούτων ἰδίως, ἀλλʼ Ἀθηναίους καλῶν τοὺς ἐν τῇ Ἀττικῇ πάντας συμπεριείληφε καὶ τούτους τῷ κοινῷ ὀνόματι Ἀθηναίους νομίζων, ὡς ὅταν φῇ ἐν τῷ καταλόγῳ

οἳ δʼ ἄρʼ Ἀθήνας εἶχον, ἐυκτίμενον πτολίεθρον

¹ δέχεσθαι δεῖ καὶ τοὺς νῦν Μεγαρέας, ὡς καὶ τούτους μετασχόντας τῆς στρατείας. σημεῖον δέ· ἡ γὰρ Ἀττικὴ τὸ παλαιὸν Ἰωνία καὶ Ἰὰς ἐκαλεῖτο, καὶ ὁ ποιητὴς ὅταν φῇ

ἔνθα δὲ Βοιωτοὶ καὶ Ἰάονες

²τοὺς Ἀθηναίους λέγει· ταύτης δʼ ἦν μερὶς καὶ ἡ Μεγαρίς.

[6] καὶ δὴ καὶ τῶν ὁρίων ἀμφισβητοῦντες πολλάκις οἵ τε Πελοποννήσιοι καὶ Ἴωνες, ἐν οἷς ἦν καὶ ἡ Κρομμυωνία, συνέβησαν καὶ στήλην ἔστησαν ἐπὶ τοῦ συνομολογηθέντος τόπου περὶ αὐτὸν τὸν Ἰσθμόν, ἐπιγραφὴν ἔχουσαν ἐπὶ μὲν τοῦ πρὸς τὴν Πελοπόννησον μέρους

τάδʼ ἐστὶ Πελοπόννησος οὐκ Ἰωνία,

ἐπὶ δὲ τοῦ πρὸς Μέγαρα

τάδʼ οὐχὶ Πελοπόννησος ἀλλʼ Ἰωνία.

οἵ τε δὴ τὴν Ἀτθίδα συγγράψαντες πολλὰ διαφωνοῦντες τοῦτό γε ὁμολογοῦσιν οἵ γε λόγου ἄξιοι, διότι τῶν Πανδιονιδῶν τεττάρων ὄντων, Αἰγέως τε καὶ Λύκου καὶ Πάλλαντος καὶ τετάρτου Νίσου, καὶ τῆς Ἀττικῆς εἰς τέτταρα μέρη διαιρεθείσης, ὁ Νῖσος τὴν Μεγαρίδα λάχοι καὶ κτίσαι τὴν Νίσαιαν. Φιλόχορος μὲν οὖν ἀπὸ Ἰσθμοῦ μέχρι τοῦ Πυθίου διήκειν αὐτοῦ φησι τὴν ἀρχήν, Ἄνδρων δὲ μέχρι Ἐλευσῖνος καὶ τοῦ Θριασίου πεδίου. τὴν δʼ εἰς τέτταρα μέρη διανομὴν ἄλλων ἄλλως εἰρηκότων ἀρκεῖ ταῦτα παρὰ Σοφοκλέους λαβεῖν· φησὶ δʼ ὁ Αἰγεὺς ὅτι ὁ πατὴρ ὥρισεν ἐμοὶ μὲν ἀ πελθεῖν εἰς ἀκτὰς τῆσδε γῆς πρεσβεῖα νείμας· εἶτα Λύκῳ

τὸν ἀντίπλευρον κῆπον Εὐβοίας νέμει,

Νίσῳ δὲ τὴν ὅμαυλον ἐξαιρεῖ χθόνα

Σκείρωνος ἀκτῆς, τῆς δὲ γῆς τὸ πρὸς νότον

ὁ σκληρὸς οὗτος καὶ γίγαντας ἐκτρέφων

εἴληχε Πάλλας.

³ὅτι μὲν οὖν ἡ Μεγαρὶς τῆς Ἀττικῆς μέρος ἦν, τούτοις χρῶνται τεκμηρίοις.

[7] μετὰ δὲ τὴν τῶν Ἡρακλειδῶν κάθοδον καὶ τὸν τῆς χώρας μερισμὸν ὑπʼ αὐτῶν καὶ τῶν συγκατελθόντων αὐτοῖς Δωριέων ἐκπεσεῖν τῆς οἰκείας συνέβη πολλοὺς εἰς τὴν Ἀττικήν, ὧν ἦν καὶ ὁ τῆς Μεσσήνης βασιλεὺς Μέλανθος· οὗτος δὲ καὶ τῶν Ἀθηναίων ἐβασίλευσεν ἑκόντων, νικήσας ἐκ μονομαχίας τὸν τῶν Βοιωτῶν βασιλέα Ξάνθον. εὐανδρούσης δὲ τῆς Ἀττικῆς διὰ τοὺς φυγάδας φοβηθέντες οἱ Ἡρακλεῖδαι, παροξυνόντων αὐτοὺς μάλιστα τῶν ἐν Κορίνθῳ καὶ τῶν ἐν Μεσσήνῃ, τῶν μὲν διὰ τὴν γειτνίασιν, τῶν δὲ ὅτι Κόδρος τῆς Ἀττικῆς ἐβασίλευε τότε ὁ τοῦ Μελάνθου παῖς, ἐστράτευσαν ἐπὶ τὴν Ἀττικήν· ἡττηθέντες δὲ μάχῃ τῆς μὲν ἄλλης ἐξέστησαν γῆς, τὴν Μεγαρικὴν δὲ κατέσχον καὶ τήν τε πόλιν ἔκτισαν τὰ Μέγαρα καὶ τοὺς ἀνθρώπους Δωριέας ἀντὶ Ἰώνων ἐποίησαν· ἠφάνισαν δὲ καὶ τὴν στήλην τὴν ὁρίζουσαν τούς τε Ἴωνας καὶ τοὺς Πελοποννησίους.

[8] πολλαῖς δὲ κέχρηται μεταβολαῖς ἡ τῶν Μεγαρέων πόλις, συμμένει δʼ ὅμως μέχρι νῦν. ἔσχε δέ ποτε καὶ φιλοσόφων διατριβὰς τῶν προσαγορευθέντων Μεγαρικῶν, Εὐκλείδην διαδεξαμένων ἄνδρα Σωκρατικόν, Μεγαρέα τὸ γένος· καθάπερ καὶ Φαίδωνα μὲν τὸν Ἠλεῖον οἱ Ἠλειακοὶ διεδέξαντο, καὶ τοῦτον Σωκρατικόν, ὧν ἦν καὶ Πύρρων, Μενέδημον δὲ τὸν Ἐρετριέα οἱ Ἐρετρικοί. ἔστι δʼ ἡ χώρα τῶν Μεγαρέων παράλυπρος καθάπερ καὶ ἡ Ἀττική, καὶ τὸ πλέον αὐτῆς ἐπέχει τὰ καλούμενα Ὄνεια ὄρη, ῥάχις τις μηκυνομένη μὲν ἀπὸ τῶν Σκιρωνίδων πετρῶν ἐπὶ τὴν Βοιωτίαν καὶ τὸν Κιθαιρῶνα, διείργουσα δὲ τὴν κατὰ Νίσαιαν θάλατταν ἀπὸ τῆς κατ ὰ τὰς Παγὰς Ἀλκυονίδος προσαγορευομένης.

[9] πρόκειται δʼ ἀπὸ Νισαίας πλέοντι εἰς τὴν Ἀττικὴν πέντε νησία. εἶτα Σαλαμὶς ἑβδομήκοντά που σταδίων οὖσα τὸ μῆκος, οἱ δʼ ὀγδοήκοντά φασιν· ἔχει δʼ ὁμώνυμον πόλιν τὴν μὲν ἀρχαίαν ἔρημον πρὸς Αἴγιναν τετραμμένην καὶ πρὸς νότον (καθάπερ καὶ Αἰσχύλος εἴρηκεν

Αἴγινα δʼ αὕτη πρὸς νότου κεῖται πνοάς

⁴), τὴν δὲ νῦν ἐν κόλπῳ κειμένην ἐπὶ χερρονησοειδοῦς τόπου συνάπτοντος πρὸς τὴν Ἀττικήν. ἐκαλεῖτο δʼ ἑτέροις ὀνόμασι τὸ παλαιόν· καὶ γὰρ Σκιρὰς καὶ Κύχρεια ἀπό τινων ἡρώων, ἀφʼ οὗ μὲν Ἀθηνᾶ τε λέγεται Σκιρὰς καὶ τόπος Σκίρα ἐν τῇ Ἀττικῇ καὶ ἐπὶ Σκίρῳ ἱεροποιία τις καὶ ὁ μὴν ὁ Σκιροφοριών, ἀφʼ οὗ δὲ καὶ Κυχρείδης ὄφις, ὅν φησιν Ἡσίοδος τραφέντα ὑπὸ Κυχρέως ἐξελαθῆναι ὑπὸ Εὐρυλόχου λυμαινόμενον τὴν νῆσον, ὑποδέξασθαι δὲ αὐτὸν τὴν Δήμητρα εἰς Ἐλευσῖνα καὶ γενέσθαι ταύτης ἀμφίπολον. ὠνομάσθη δὲ καὶ Πιτυοῦσσα ἀπὸ τοῦ φυτοῦ· ἐπιφανὴς δὲ ἡ νῆσος ὑπῆρξε διά τε τοὺς Αἰακίδας ἐπάρξαντας αὐτῆς, καὶ μάλιστα διʼ Αἴαντα τὸν Τελαμώνιον, καὶ διὰ τὸ περὶ τὴν νῆσον ταύτην καταναυμαχηθῆναι Ξέρξην ὑπὸ τῶν Ἑλλήνων καὶ φυγεῖν εἰς τὴν οἰκείαν. συναπέλαυσαν δὲ καὶ Αἰγινῆται τῆς περὶ τὸν ἀγῶνα τοῦτον δόξης, γείτονές τε ὄντες καὶ ναυτικὸν ἀξιόλογον παρασχόμενοι. Βώκαρος δʼ ἐστὶν ἐν Σαλαμῖνι ποταμός, ὁ νῦν Βωκαλία καλούμενος.

[10] καὶ νῦν μὲν ἔχουσιν Ἀθηναῖοι τὴν νῆσον, τὸ δὲ παλαιὸν πρὸς Μεγαρέας ὑπῆρξεν αὐτοῖς ἔρις περὶ αὐτῆς· καί φασιν οἱ μὲν Πεισίστρατον οἱ δὲ Σόλωνα παρεγγράψαντα ἐν τῷ νεῶν καταλόγῳ μετὰ τὸ ἔπος τοῦτο

Αἴας δʼ ἐκ Σαλαμῖνος ἄγεν δυοκαίδεκα νῆας

⁵ ἑξῆς τοῦτο

στῆσε δʼ ἄγων, ἵνʼ Ἀθηναίων ἵσταντο φάλαγγες,

⁶ μάρτυρι χρήσασθαι τῷ ποιητῇ τοῦ τὴν νῆσον ἐξ ἀρχῆς Ἀθηναίων ὑπάρξαι. οὐ παραδέχονται δὲ τοῦθʼ οἱ κριτικοὶ διὰ τὸ πολλὰ τῶν ἐπῶν ἀντιμαρτυρεῖν αὐτοῖς. διὰ τί γὰρ ναυλοχῶν ἔσχατος φαίνεται ὁ Αἴας, οὐ μετʼ Ἀθηναίων ἀλλὰ μετὰ τῶν ὑπὸ Πρωτεσιλάῳ Θετταλῶν;

ἔνθʼ ἔσαν Αἴαντός τε νέες καὶ Πρωτεσιλάου

Hom. Il. 13.681 καὶ ἐν τῇ ἐπιπωλήσει ὁ Ἀγαμέμνων

εὗρʼ υἱὸν Πετεῶο Μενεσθῆα πλή ξιππον

ἑσταότʼ, ἀμφὶ δʼ Ἀθηναῖοι, μήστωρες ἀυτῆς.

αὐτὰρ ὁ πλησίον ἑστήκει πολύμητις Ὀδυσσεύς,

πὰρ δὲ Κεφαλλήνων ἀμφὶ στίχες.

⁷ ἐπὶ δὲ τὸν Αἴαντα καὶ τοὺς Σαλαμινίους πάλιν

ἦλθε δʼ ἐπʼ Αἰάντεσσι,

⁸καὶ παρʼ αὐτούς

Ἰδομενεὺς δʼ ἑτέρωθεν,

⁹οὐ Μενεσθεύς. οἱ μὲν δὴ Ἀθηναῖοι τοιαύτην τινὰ σκήψασθαι μαρτυρίαν παρʼ Ὁμήρου δοκοῦσιν, οἱ δὲ Μεγαρεῖς ἀντιπαρῳδῆσαι οὕτως

Αἴας δʼ ἐκ Σαλαμῖνος ἄγεν νέας, ἔκ τε Πολίχνης,

ἔκ τʼ Αἰγειρούσσης Νισαίης τε Τριπόδων τε.

¹⁰ἅ ἐστι χωρία Μεγαρικά, ὧν οἱ Τρίποδες Τριποδίσκιον λέγονται, καθʼ ὃ ἡ νῦν ἀγορὰ τῶν Μεγάρων κεῖται.

[11] τινὲς δʼ ἀπὸ τοῦ τὴν ἱέρειαν τῆς Πολιάδος Ἀθηνᾶς χλωροῦ τυροῦ τοῦ μὲν ἐπιχωρίου μὴ ἅπτεσθαι, ξενικὸν δὲ μόνον προσφέρεσθαι, χρῆσθαι δὲ καὶ τῷ Σαλαμινίῳ, ξένην φασὶ τῆς Ἀττικῆς τὴν Σαλαμῖνα οὐκ εὖ· καὶ γὰρ τὸν ἀπὸ τῶν ἄλλων νήσων τῶν ὁμολογουμένως τῇ Ἀττικῇ προσχώρων προσφέρεται, ξενικὸν πάντα τὸν διαπόντιον νοησάντων τῶν ἀρξάντων τοῦ ἔθους τούτου. ἔοικε δὴ τὸ παλαιὸν ἡ νῦν Σαλαμὶς καθʼ αὑτὴν τάττεσθαι, τὰ δὲ Μέγαρα τῆς Ἀττικῆς ὑπάρξαι μέρος. ἐν δὲ τῇ παραλίᾳ τῇ κατὰ Σαλαμῖνα κεῖσθαι συμβαίνει τὰ ὅρια τῆς τε Μεγαρικῆς καὶ τῆς Ἀτθίδος, ὄρη δύο ἃ καλοῦσι Κέρατα.

[12] εἶτʼ Ἐλευσὶς πόλις, ἐν ᾗ τὸ τῆς Δήμητρος ἱερὸν τῆς Ἐλευσινίας καὶ ὁ μυστικὸς σηκός, ὃν κατεσκεύασεν Ἰκτῖνος ὄχλον θεάτρου δέξασθαι δυνάμενον, ὃς καὶ τὸν παρθενῶνα ἐποίησε τὸν ἐν ἀκροπόλει τῇ Ἀθηνᾷ, Περικλέους ἐπιστατοῦντος τῶν ἔργων· ἐν δὲ τοῖς δήμοις καταριθμεῖται ἡ πόλις.

[13] εἶτα τὸ Θριάσιον πεδίον καὶ ὁμώνυμος αἰγιαλὸς καὶ δῆμος· εἶθʼ ἡ ἄκρα ἡ Ἀμφιάλη καὶ τὸ ὑπερκείμενον λατόμιον καὶ ὁ εἰς Σαλαμῖνα πορθμὸς ὅσον διστάδιος, ὃν διαχοῦν ἐπειρᾶτο Ξέρξης, ἔφθη δὲ ἡ ναυμαχία γενομένη καὶ φυγὴ τῶν Περσῶν. ἐνταῦθα δὲ καὶ αἱ Φαρμακοῦσσαι, δύο νησία ὧν ἐν τῷ μείζονι Κίρκης τάφος δείκνυται.

[14] ὑπὲρ δὲ τῆς ἀκτῆς ταύτης ὄρος ἐστὶν ὃ καλεῖται Κορυδαλλός, καὶ ὁ δῆμος οἱ Κορυδαλλεῖς· εἶθʼ ὁ Φώρων λιμὴν καὶ ἡ Ψυττάλεια, νησίον ἔρημον πετρῶδες ὅ τινες εἶπον λήμην τοῦ Πειραιῶς· πλησίον δὲ καὶ ἡ Ἀταλάντη ὁμώνυμος τῇ περὶ Εὔβοιαν καὶ Λοκρούς, καὶ ἄλλο νησίον ὅμοιον τῇ Ψυτταλείᾳ καὶ τοῦτο· εἶθʼ ὁ Πειραιεὺς καὶ αὐτὸς ἐν τοῖς δήμοις ταττόμενος καὶ ἡ Μουνυχία.

[15] λόφος δʼ ἐστὶν ἡ Μουνυχία χερρονησιάζων καὶ κοῖλος καὶ ὑπόνομος πολὺ μέρος φύσει τε καὶ ἐπίτηδες ὥστʼ οἰκήσεις δέχεσθαι, στομίῳ δὲ μικρῷ τὴν εἴσοδον ἔχων. ὑποπίπτουσι δʼ αὐτῷ λιμένες τρεῖς. τὸ μὲν οὖν παλαιὸν ἐτετείχιστο καὶ συνῴκιστο ἡ Μουνυχία παραπλησίως ὥσπερ ἡ τῶν Ῥοδίων πόλις, προσειληφυῖα τῷ περιβόλῳ τόν τε Πειραιᾶ καὶ τοὺς λιμένας πλήρεις νεωρίων, ἐν οἷς καὶ ἡ ὁπλοθήκη Φίλωνος ἔργον· ἄξιόν τε ἦν ναύσταθμον ταῖς τετρακοσίαις ναυσίν, ὧν οὐκ ἐλάττους ἔστελλον Ἀθηναῖοι. τῷ δὲ τείχει τούτῳ συνῆπτε τὰ καθειλκυσμένα ἐκ τοῦ ἄστεος σκέλη· ταῦτα δʼ ἦν μακρὰ τείχη τετταράκοντα σταδίων τὸ μῆκος, συνάπτοντα τὸ ἄστυ τῷ Πειραιεῖ. οἱ δὲ πολλοὶ πόλεμοι τὸ τεῖχος κατήρειψαν καὶ τὸ τῆς Μουνυχίας ἔρυμα, τόν τε Πειραιᾶ συνέστειλαν εἰς ὀλίγην κατοικίαν τὴν περὶ τοὺς λιμένας καὶ τὸ ἱερὸν τοῦ Διὸς τοῦ σωτῆρος· τοῦ δὲ ἱεροῦ τὰ μὲν στοΐδια ἔχει πίνακας θαυμαστούς, ἔργα τῶν ἐπιφανῶν τεχνιτῶν, τὸ δʼ ὕπαιθρον ἀνδριάντας. κατέσπασται δὲ καὶ τὰ μακρὰ τείχη, Λακεδαιμονίων μὲν καθελόντων πρότερον Ῥωμαίων δʼ ὕστερον, ἡνίκα Σύλλας ἐκ πολιορκίας εἷλε καὶ τὸν Πειραιᾶ καὶ τὸ ἄστυ.

[16] τὸ δʼ ἄστυ αὐτὸ πέτρα ἐστὶν ἐν πεδίῳ περιοικουμένη κύκλῳ· ἐπὶ δὲ τῇ πέτρᾳ τὸ τῆς Ἀθηνᾶς ἱερὸν ὅ τε ἀρχαῖος νεὼς ὁ τῆς Πολιάδος ἐν ᾧ ὁ ἄσβεστος λύχνος, καὶ ὁ παρθενὼν ὃν ἐποίησεν Ἰκτῖνος, ἐν ᾧ τὸ τοῦ Φειδίου ἔργον ἐλεφάντινον ἡ Ἀθηνᾶ. ἀλλὰ γὰρ εἰς πλῆθος ἐμπίπτων τῶν περὶ τῆς πόλεως ταύτης ὑμνουμένων τε καὶ διαβοωμένων ὀκνῶ πλεονάζειν, μὴ συμβῇ τῆς προθέσεως ἐκπεσεῖν τὴν γραφήν. ἔπεισι γὰρ ὅ φησιν Ἡγησίας ὁρῶ τὴν ἀκρόπολιν καὶ τὸ περιττῆς τριαίνης ἐκεῖθι σημεῖον, ὁρῶ τὴν Ἐλευσῖνα, καὶ τῶν ἱερῶν γέγονα μύστης· ἐκεῖνο Λεωκόριον, τοῦτο Θησεῖον· οὐ δύναμαι δηλῶσαι καθʼ ἓν ἕκαστον· ἡ γὰρ Ἀττικὴ θεῶν αὐτοῖς καταλαβόντων καὶ τῶν προγόνων ἡρώων οὗτος μὲν οὖν ἑνὸς ἐμνήσθη τῶν ἐν ἀκροπόλει σημείων, Πολέμων δʼ ὁ περιηγητὴς τέτταρα βιβλία συνέγραψε περὶ τῶν ἀναθημάτων τῶν ἐν ἀκροπόλει· τὸ δʼ ἀνάλογον συμβαίνει καὶ ἐπὶ τῶν ἄλλων τῆς πόλεως μερῶν καὶ τῆς χώρας· Ἐλευσῖνά τε εἰπὼν ἕνα τῶν ἑκατὸν ἑβδομήκοντα δήμων πρὸς δὲ καὶ τεττάρων, ὥς φασιν, οὐδένα τῶν ἄλλων ὠνόμακεν.

[17] ἔχουσι δὲ κἂν εἰ μὴ πάντες οἵ γε πολλοὶ μυθοποιίας συχνὰς καὶ ἱστορίας· καθάπερ Ἄφιδνα μὲν τὴν τῆς Ἑλένης ἁρπαγὴν ὑπὸ Θησέως καὶ τὴν ὑπὸ τῶν Διοσκούρων ἐκπόρθησιν αὐτῆς καὶ ἀνακομιδὴν τῆς ἀδελφῆς, Μαραθὼν δὲ τὸν Περσικὸν ἀγῶνα, Ῥαμνοῦς δὲ τὸ τῆς Νεμέσεως ξόανον, ὅ τινες μὲν Διοδότου φασὶν ἔργον τινὲς δὲ Ἀγορακρίτου τοῦ Παρίου, καὶ μεγέθει καὶ κάλλει σφόδρα κατωρθωμένον καὶ ἐνάμιλλον τοῖς Φειδίου ἔργοις. οὕτω δὲ καὶ Δεκέλεια μὲν τὸ ὁρμητήριον τῶν Πελοποννησίων κατὰ τὸν Δεκελεικὸν πόλεμον, Φυλὴ δὲ ὅθεν ἐπήγαγε τὸν δῆμον Θρασύβουλος εἰς Πειραιᾶ κἀκεῖθεν εἰς ἄστυ. οὕτω δὲ καὶ ἐπʼ ἄλλων πλειόνων ἔστιν ἱστορεῖν πολλά· καὶ ἔτι τὸ Λεωκόριον καὶ τὸ Θη σεῖον μύθους ἔχει, καὶ τὸ Λύκειον καὶ τὸ Ὀλυμπικὸν ὸ τὸ Ὀλύμπιον, ὅπερ ἡμιτελὲς κατέλιπε τελευτῶν ὁ ἀναθεὶς βασιλεύς· ὁμοίως δὲ καὶ ἡ Ἀκαδημία καὶ οἱ κῆποι τῶν φιλοσόφων καὶ τὸ Ὠιδεῖον καὶ ἡ ποικίλη στοὰ καὶ τὰ ἱερὰ τὰ ἐν τῇ πό λει πλεῖστα ἔχοντα τεχνιτῶν ἔργα.

[18] πολὺ δʼ ἂν πλείων εἴη λόγος, εἰ τοὺς ἀρχηγέτας τοῦ κτίσματος ἐξετάζοι τις ἀρξάμενος ἀπὸ Κέκροπος· οὐδὲ γὰρ ὁμοίως λέγουσιν ἅπαντες. τοῦτο δὲ καὶ ἀπὸ τῶν ὀνομάτων δῆλον· ἀκτὴν μὲν γὰρ ἀπὸ Ἀκταίωνος φασίν, Ἀτθίδα δὲ καὶ Ἀττικὴν ἀπὸ Ἀτθίδος τῆς Κραναοῦ, ἀφʼ οὗ καὶ Κραναοὶ οἱ ἔνοικοι, Μοψοπίαν δὲ ἀπὸ Μοψόπου, Ἰωνίαν δὲ ἀπὸ Ἴωνος τοῦ Ξούθου, Ποσειδωνίαν δὲ καὶ Ἀθήνας ἀπὸ τῶν ἐπωνύμων θεῶν. εἴρηται δʼ ὅτι κἀνταῦθα φαίνεται τὸ τῶν Πελασγῶν ἔθνος ἐπιδημῆσαν, καὶ διότι ὑπὸ τῶν Ἀττικῶν Πελαργοὶ προσηγορεύθησαν διὰ τὴν πλάνην.

[19] ὅσῳ δὲ πλέον ἐστὶ τὸ φιλότιμον περὶ τὰ ἔνδοξα καὶ πλείους οἱ λαλήσαντές τι περὶ αὐτῶν, τοσῷδε μείζων ὁ ἔλεγχος, ἐὰν μὴ κρατῇ τις τῆς ἱστορίας· οἷον ἐν τῇ συναγωγῇ τῶν ποταμῶν ὁ Καλλίμαχος γελᾶν φησιν, εἴ τις θαρρεῖ γράφειν τὰς τῶν Ἀθηναίων παρθένους ἀφύσσεσθαι καθαρὸν γάνος Ἠριδανοῖο, οὗ καὶ τὰ βοσκήματα ἀπόσχοιτʼ ἄν. εἰσὶ μὲν νῦν αἱ πηγαὶ καθαροῦ καὶ ποτίμου ὕδατος, ὥς φασιν, ἐκτὸς τῶν Διοχάρους καλουμένων πυλῶν πλησίον τοῦ Λυκείου· πρότερον δὲ καὶ κρήνη κατεσκεύαστό τις πλησίον πολλοῦ καὶ καλοῦ ὕδατος· εἰ δὲ μὴ νῦν, τί ἂν εἴη θαυμαστόν, εἰ πάλαι πολὺ καὶ καθαρὸν ἦν ὥστε καὶ πότιμον εἶναι, μετέβαλε δὲ ὕστερον; ἐν μὲν οὖν τοῖς καθʼ ἕκαστα τοσούτοις οὖσιν οὐκ ἐνδέχεται διατρίβειν, οὐ μὴν οὐδὲ σιγῇ παρελθεῖν ὥστε μηδʼ ἐν κεφαλαίῳ μνησθῆναί τινων.

[20] τοσαῦτʼ οὖν ἀπόχρη προσθεῖσιν ὅτι φησὶ Φιλόχορος πορθουμένης τῆς χώρας ἐκ θαλάττης μὲν ὑπὸ Καρῶν ἐκ γῆς δὲ ὑπὸ Βοιωτῶν, οὓς ἐκάλουν Ἄονας, Κέκροπα πρῶτον εἰς δώδεκα πόλεις συνοικίσαι τὸ πλῆθος, ὧν ὀνόματα Κεκροπία Τετράπολις Ἐπακρία Δεκέλεια Ἐλευσὶς Ἄφιδνα (λέγουσι δὲ καὶ πληθυντικῶς Ἀφίδνας) Θόρικος Βραυρὼν Κύθηρος Σφηττὸς Κηφισιά πάλιν δʼ ὕστερον εἰς μίαν πόλιν συναγαγεῖν λέγεται τὴν νῦν τὰς δώδεκα Θησεύς. ἐβασιλεύοντο μὲν οὖν οἱ Ἀθηναῖοι πρότερον, εἶτʼ εἰς δημοκρατίαν μετέστησαν· τυράννων δʼ ἐπιθεμένων αὐτοῖς, Πεισιστράτου καὶ τῶν παίδων, ὕστερόν τε ὀλιγαρχίας γενομένης τῆς τε τῶν τετρακοσίων καὶ τῆς τῶν τριάκοντα τυράννων, οὓς ἐπέστησαν Λακεδαιμόνιοι, τούτους μὲν διεκρούσαντο ῥᾳδίως, ἐφύλαξαν δὲ τὴν δημοκρατίαν μέχρι τῆς Ῥωμαίων ἐπικρατείας. καὶ γὰρ εἴ τι μικρὸν ὑπὸ τῶν Μακεδονικῶν βασιλέων παρελυπήθησαν ὥσθʼ ὑπακούειν αὐτῶν ἀναγκασθῆναι, τόν γε ὁλοσχερῆ τύπον τῆς πολιτείας τὸν αὐτὸν διετήρουν. ἔνιοι δέ φασι καὶ βέλτιστα τότε αὐτοὺς πολιτεύσασθαι δεκαετῆ χρόνον ὃν ἦρχε Μακεδόνων Κάσανδρος. οὗτος γὰρ ὁ ἀνὴρ πρὸς μὲν τὰ ἄλλα δοκεῖ τυραννικώτερος γενέσθαι, πρὸς Ἀθηναίους δὲ εὐγνωμόνησε λαβὼν ὑπήκοον τὴν πόλιν· ἐπέστησε γὰρ τῶν πολιτῶν Δημήτριον τὸν Φαληρέα τῶν Θεοφράστου τοῦ φιλοσόφου γνωρίμων, ὃς οὐ μόνον οὐ κατέλυσε τὴν δημοκρατίαν ἀλλὰ καὶ ἐπηνώρθωσε. δηλοῖ δὲ τὰ ὑπομνήματα ἃ συνέγραψε περὶ τῆς πολιτείας ταύτης ἐκεῖνος. ἀλλʼ οὕτως ὁ φθόνος ἴσχυσε καὶ ἡ πρὸς ὀλίγους ἀπέχθεια ὥστε μετὰ τὴν Κασάνδρου τελευτὴν ἠναγκάσθη φυγεῖν εἰς Αἴγυπτον· τὰς δʼ εἰκόνας αὐτοῦ πλείους ἢ τριακοσίας κατέσπασαν οἱ ἐπαναστάντες καὶ κατεχώνευσαν, ἔνιοι δὲ καὶ προστιθέασιν ὅτι καὶ εἰς ἀμίδας. Ῥωμαῖοι δʼ οὖν παραλαβόντες αὐτοὺς δημοκρατουμένους ἐφύλαξαν τὴν αὐτονομίαν αὐτοῖς καὶ τὴν ἐλευθερίαν. ἐπιπεσὼν δʼ ὁ Μιθριδατικὸς πόλεμος τυράννους αὐτοῖς κατέστησεν οὓς ὁ βασιλεὺς ἐβούλετο· τὸν δʼ ἰσχύσαντα μάλιστα τὸν Ἀριστίωνα καὶ ταύτην βιασάμενον τὴν πόλιν ἐκ πολιορκίας ἑλὼν Σύλλας ὁ τῶν Ῥωμαίων ἡγεμὼν ἐκόλασε, τῇ δὲ πόλει συγγνώμην ἔνειμε· καὶ μέχρι νῦν ἐν ἐλευθερίᾳ τέ ἐστι καὶ τιμῇ παρὰ τοῖς Ῥωμαίοις.

[21] μετὰ δὲ τὸν Πειραιᾶ Φαληρεῖς δῆμος ἐν τῇ ἐφεξῆς παραλίᾳ· εἶθʼ Ἁλιμούσιοι Αἰξωνεῖς Ἁλαιεῖς οἱ Αἰξωνικοὶ Ἀναγυράσιοι· εἶτα Θοραιεῖς Λαμπτρεῖς Αἰγιλιεῖς Ἀναφλύστιοι Ἀζηνιεῖς· οὗτοι μὲν οἱ μέχρι τῆς ἄκρας τοῦ Σουνίου. μεταξὺ δὲ τῶν λεχθέντων δήμων μακρὰ ἄκρα, πρώτη μετὰ τοὺς Αἰξωνέας Ζωστήρ, εἶτʼ ἄλλη μετὰ Θοραιέας Ἀστυπάλαια· ὧν τῆς μὲν πρόκειται νῆσος Φάβρα τῆς δʼ Ἐλαιοῦσσα· καὶ κατὰ τοὺς Αἰξωνέας δʼ ἔστιν Ὑδροῦσσα· περὶ δὲ Ἀνάφλυστόν ἐστι καὶ τὸ Πανεῖον καὶ τὸ τῆς Κωλιάδος Ἀφροδίτης ἱερόν, εἰς ὃν τόπον ἐκκυμανθῆναι τὰ τελευταῖα τὰ ἐκ τῆς περὶ Σαλαμῖνα ναυμαχίας τῆς Περσικῆς ναυάγιά φασι, περὶ ὧν καὶ τὸν Ἀπόλλω προειπεῖν Κωλιάδες δὲ γυναῖκες ἐρετμοῖσι φρύξουσι. πρόκειται δὲ καὶ τούτων τῶν τόπων Βέλβινα νῆσος οὐ πολὺ ἄπωθεν καὶ ὁ Πατρόκλου χάραξ· ἔρημοι δʼ αἱ πλεῖσται τούτων.

[22] κάμψαντι δὲ τὴν κατὰ τὸ Σούνιον ἄκραν ἀξιόλογος δῆμος Σούνιον, εἶτα Θόρικος, εἶτα Ποταμὸς δῆμος οὕτω καλούμενος, ἐξ οὗ οἱ ἄνδρες Ποτάμιοι, εἶτα Πρασιὰ Στειριὰ Βραυρών, ὅπου τὸ τῆς Βραυρωνίας Ἀρτέμιδος ἱερόν, Ἁλαὶ Ἀραφηνίδες, ὅπου τὸ τῆς Ταυροπόλου, Μυρρινοῦς Προβάλινθος Μαραθών, ὅπου Μιλτιάδης τὰς μετὰ Δάτιος τοῦ Πέρσου δυνάμεις ἄρδην διέφθειρεν οὐ περιμείνας ὑστερίζοντας Λακεδαιμονίους διὰ τὴν πανσέληνον· ἐνταῦθα μεμυθεύκασι καὶ τὸν Μαραθώνιον ταῦρον ὃν ἀνεῖλε Θησεύς. μετὰ δὲ Μαραθῶνα Τρικόρυνθος, εἶτα Ῥαμνοῦς, ὅπου τὸ τῆς Νεμέσεως ἱερόν, εἶτα Ψαφὶς ἡ τῶν Ὠρωπίων· ἐνταῦθα δέ που καὶ τὸ Ἀμφιαράειόν ἐστι τετιμημένον ποτὲ μαντεῖον, ὅπου φυγόντα τὸν Ἀμφιάρεων, ὥς φησι Σοφοκλῆς, ἐδέξατο ῥαγεῖσα Θηβαία κόνις αὐτοῖσιν ὅπλοις καὶ τετρωρίστῳ δίφρῳ. Ὠρωπὸς δʼ ἐν ἀμφισβητησίμῳ γεγένηται πολλάκις· ἵδρυται γὰρ ἐν μεθορίῳ τῆς τε Ἀττικῆς καὶ τῆς Βοιωτίας. πρόκειται δὲ τῆς παραλίας ταύτης πρὸ μὲν τοῦ Θορίκου καὶ τοῦ Σουνίου νῆσος Ἑλένη τραχεῖα καὶ ἔρημος, παραμήκης ὅσον ἑξήκοντα σταδίων τὸ μῆκος, ἧς φασι μεμνῆσθαι τὸν ποιητὴν ἐν οἷς Ἀλέξανδρος λέγει πρὸς τὴν Ἑλένην οὐδʼ ὅτε σε πρῶτον Λακεδαίμονος ἐξ ἐρατεινῆς ἔπλεονἁρπάξας ἐν ποντοπόροισι νέεσσι, νήσῳ δʼ ἐν Κρανάῃ ἐμίγην φιλότητι καὶ εὐνῇ. ταύτην γὰρ λέγει Κρανάην τὴν νῦν Ἑλένην ἀπὸ τοῦ ἐκεῖ γενέσθαι τὴν μῖξιν. μετὰ δὲ τὴν Ἑλένην ἡ Εὔβοια πρόκειται τῆς ἑξῆς παραλίας, ὁμοίως στενὴ καὶ μακρὰ καὶ κατὰ μῆκος τῇ ἠπείρῳ παραβεβλημένη καθάπερ ἡ Ἑλένη. ἔστι δʼ ἀπὸ τοῦ Σουνίου πρὸς τὸ νότιον τῆς Εὐβοίας ἄκρον, ὃ καλοῦσι Λευκὴν ἀκτήν, σταδίων τριακοσίων πλοῦς· ἀλλὰ περὶ Εὐβοίας μὲ ν λέξομεν ὕστερον, τοὺς δʼ ἐν τῇ μεσογαίᾳ δήμους τῆς Ἀττικῆς μακρὸν εἰπεῖν διὰ τὸ πλῆθος.

[23] τῶν δʼ ὀρῶν τὰ μὲν ἐν ὀνόματι μάλιστά ἐστιν ὅ τε Ὑμηττὸς καὶ Βριλησσὸς καὶ Λυκαβηττός, ἔτι δὲ Πάρνης καὶ Κορυδαλλός. μαρμάρου δʼ ἐστὶ τῆς τε Ὑμηττίας καὶ τῆς Πεντελικῆς κάλλιστα μέταλλα πλησίον τῆς πόλεως· ὁ δʼ Ὑμηττὸς καὶ μέλι ἄριστον ποιεῖ. τὰ δʼ ἀργυρεῖα τὰ ἐν τῇ Ἀττικῇ κατʼ ἀρχὰς μὲν ἦν ἀξιόλογα, νυνὶ δʼ ἐκλείπει· καὶ δὴ καὶ οἱ ἐργαζόμενοι, τῆς μεταλλείας ἀσθενῶς ὑπακουούσης, τὴν παλαιὰν ἐκβολάδα καὶ σκωρίαν ἀναχωνεύοντες εὕρισκον ἔτι ἐξ αὐτῆς ἀποκαθαιρόμενον ἀργύριον, τῶν ἀρχαίων ἀπείρως καμινευόντων. τοῦ δὲ μέλιτος ἀρίστου τῶν πάντων ὄντος τοῦ Ἀττικοῦ πολὺ βέλτιστόν φασι τὸ ἐν τοῖς ἀργυρείοις, ὃ καὶ ἀκάπνιστον καλοῦσιν ἀπὸ τοῦ τρόπου τῆς σκευασίας.

[24] ποταμοὶ δʼ εἰσὶν ὁ μὲν Κηφισσὸς ἐκ Τρινεμέων τὰς ἀρχὰς ἔχων ῥέων δὲ διὰ τοῦ πεδίου, ἐφʼ οὗ καὶ ἡ γέφυρα καὶ οἱ γεφυρισμοί, διὰ δὲ τῶν σκελῶν τῶν ἀπὸ τοῦ ἄστεος εἰς τὸν Πειραιᾶ καθηκόντων ἐκδίδωσιν εἰς τὸ Φαληρικόν, χειμαρρώδης τὸ πλέον, θέρους δὲ μειοῦται τελέως. ἔστι δὲ τοιοῦτος μᾶλλον ὁ Ἰλισσός, ἐκ θατέρου μέρους τοῦ ἄστεος ῥέων εἰς τὴν αὐτὴν παραλίαν ἐκ τῶν ὑπὲρ τῆς Ἄγρας καὶ τοῦ Λυκείου μερῶν καὶ τῆς πηγῆς ἣν ὕμνηκεν ἐν Φαίδρῳ Πλάτων. περὶ μὲν τῆς Ἀττικῆς ταῦτα.

Translations (1)

Geography (Books 6-14) Perseus (Strabo. The Geography of Strabo, Vols. 3-6. Jones, Horace Leonard, translator. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press; London: William Heinemann, Ltd., 1924-1929 (printing).) — 9.1 focus

[1] Now that I have completed my circuit of the Peloponnesus, which, as I have said,¹ was the first and the smallest of the peninsulas of which Greece consists, it will be next in order to traverse those that are continuous with it. The second peninsula is the one that adds Megaris to the Peloponnesus,² so that Crommyon belongs to the Megarians and not to the Corinthians; the third is the one which, in addition to the second, comprises Attica and Boeotia and a part of Phocis and of the Epicnemidian Locrians. I must therefore describe these two. Eudoxus³ says that if one should imagine a straight line drawn in an easterly direction from the Ceraunian Mountains to Sunium, the promontory of Attica, it would leave on the right, towards the south, the whole of the Peloponnesus, and on the left, towards the north, the continuous coastline from the Ceraunian Mountains to the Crisaean Gulf and Megaris, and the coastline of all Attica. And he believes that the shore which extends from Sunium to the Isthmus would not be so concave as to have a great bend, if to this shore were not added the districts continuous with the Isthmus which form the Hermionic Gulf and Acte; and, in the same way, he believes that the shore which extends from the Ceraunian Mountains to the Corinthian Gulf would not, viewed by itself alone, have so great a bend as to be concave like a gulf if Rhium and Antirrhium did not draw closely together and afford this appearance; and the same is true of the shores⁴ that surround the recess of the gulf, where the sea in this region⁵ comes to an end.

[2] Since this is the description given by Eudoxus, a mathematician and an expert both in geometrical figures and in “climata,”⁶ and acquainted with these places, one must conceive of this side of Attica together with Megaris—the side extending from Sunium to the Isthmus—as concave, though only slightly so. Now here, at about the center of the aforesaid line, is the Peiraeus, the seaport of Athens. It is distant from Schoenus, at the Isthmus, about three hundred and fifty stadia, and from Sunium three hundred and thirty. The distance from the Peiraeus to Pagae also is nearly the same as to Schoenus, though the former is said to exceed the latter by ten stadia. After doubling Sunium one’s voyage is towards the north, but with an inclination towards the west.

[3] Acte⁷ is washed by two seas; it is narrow at first, and then it widens out into the interior,⁸ though none the less it takes a crescent-like bend towards Oropus in Boeotia, with the convex side towards the sea; and this is the second, the eastern side of Attica. Then comes the remaining side, which faces the north and extends from the Oropian country towards the west as far as Megaris—I mean the mountainous part of Attica, which has many names and separates Boeotia from Attica; so that, as I have said before,⁹ Boeotia, since it has a sea on either side, becomes an isthmus of the third peninsula above-mentioned, an isthmus comprising within it the parts that lie towards the Peloponnesus, that is, Megaris and Attica. And it is on this account, they say, that the country which is now, by a slight change of letters, called Attica, was in ancient times called Acte and Actice,¹⁰ because the greatest part of it lies below the mountains, stretches flat along the sea, is narrow, and has considerable length, projecting as far as Sunium. I shall therefore describe these sides, resuming again at that point of the seaboard where I left off.

[4] After Crommyon, and situated above Attica, are the Sceironian Rocks. They leave no room for a road along the sea, but the road from the Isthmus to Megara and Attica passes above them. However, the road approaches so close to the rocks that in many places it passes along the edge of precipices, because the mountain situated above them is both lofty and impracticable for roads. Here is the setting of the myth about Sceiron and the Pityocamptes,¹¹ the robbers who infested the above-mentioned mountainous country and were killed by Theseus. And the Athenians have given the name Sceiron to the Argestes, the violent wind that blows down on the travellers left¹² from the heights of this mountainous country. After the Sceironian Rocks one comes to Cape Minoa, which projects into the sea and forms the harbor at Nisaea. Nisaea is the naval station of the Megarians; it is eighteen stadia distant from the city and is joined to it on both sides by walls. The naval station, too, used to be called Minoa.

[5] In early times this country was held by the same Ionians who held Attica. Megara, however, had not yet been founded; and therefore the poet does not specifically mention this region, but when he calls all the people of Attica Athenians he includes these too under the general name, considering them Athenians. Thus, when he says in the Catalogue,

“And those who held Athens, well-built city,”

¹³we must interpret him as meaning the people now called Megarians as well, and assume that these also had a part in the expedition. And the following is proof: In early times Attica was called Ionia and Ias; and when the poet says,

“There the Boeotians and the Iaonians,”

¹⁴he means the Athenians; and Megaris was a part of this Ionia.

[6] Furthermore, since the Peloponnesians and Ionians were having frequent disputes about their boundaries, on which, among other places, Crommyonia was situated, they made an agreement and erected a pillar in the place agreed upon, near the Isthmus itself, with an inscription on the side facing the Peloponnesus reading:

“This is Peloponnesus, not Ionia,”

and on the side facing Megara,

“This is not Peloponnesus, but Ionia.”

And though the writers of the histories of The Land of Atthis are at variance on many things, they all agree on this (at least all writers who are worth mentioning), that Pandion had four sons, Aegeus, Lycus, Pallas, and the fourth, Nisus, and that when Attica was divided into four parts, Nisus obtained Megaris as his portion and founded Nisaea. Now, according to Philochorus,¹⁵ his rule extended from the Isthmus to the Pythium,¹⁶ but according to Andron,¹⁷ only as far as Eleusis and the Thriasian Plain. Although different writers have stated the division into four parts in different ways, it suffices to take the following from Sophocles: Aegeus says that his father ordered him to depart to the shorelands, assigning to him as the eldest the best portion of this land; then to Lycus

“he assigns Euboea’s garden that lies side by side therewith; and for Nisus he selects the neighboring land of Sceiron’s shore; and the southerly part of the land fell to this rugged Pallas, breeder of giants.”

¹⁸These, then, are the proofs which writers use to show that Megaris was a part of Attica.

[7] But after the return of the Heracleidae and the partitioning of the country, it came to pass that many of the former inhabitants were driven out of their homelands into Attica by the Heracleidae and the Dorians who came back with them. Among these was Melanthus, the king of Messene. And he reigned also over the Athenians, by their consent, after his victory in single combat over Xanthus, the king of the Boeotians. But since Attica was now populous on account of the exiles, the Heracleidae became frightened, and at the instigation chiefly of the people of Corinth and the people of Messene—of the former because of their proximity and of the latter because Codrus, the son of Melanthus, was at that time king of Attica—they made an expedition against Attica. But being defeated in battle they retired from the whole of the land except the Megarian territory; this they occupied and not only founded the city Megara¹⁹ but also made its population Dorians instead of Ionians. And they also destroyed the pillar which was the boundary between the Ionians and the Peloponnesians.

[8] The city of the Megarians has experienced many changes, but nevertheless it has endured until the present time. It once even had schools of philosophers who were called the Megarian sect, these being the successors of Eucleides, the Socratic philosopher, a Megarian by birth, just as the Eleian sect, to which Pyrrhon belonged, were the successors of Phaedon the Eleian, who was also a Socratic philosopher, and just as the Eretrian sect were the successors of Menedemus the Eretrian. The country of the Megarians, like Attica, has rather poor soil, and the greater part of it is occupied by the Oneian Mountains, as they are called—a kind of ridge, which extends from the Sceironian Rocks to Boeotia and Cithaeron, and separates the sea at Nisaea from the Alcyonian Sea, as it is called, at Pagae.

[9] On the voyage from Nisaea to Attica one comes to five small islands. Then to Salamis, which is about seventy stadia in length, though some say eighty. It contains a city of the same name; the ancient city, now deserted, faces towards Aegina and the south wind (just as Aeschylus has said,

“And Aegina here lies towards the blasts of the south wind”

²⁰), but the city of today is situated on a gulf, on a peninsula-like place which borders on Attica. In early times it was called by different names, for example, “Sciras” and “Cychreia,” after certain heroes. It is from one²¹ of these heroes that Athena is called “Sciras,” and that a place in Attica is called “Scira,” and that a certain sacred rite is performed in honor of “Scirus,”²² and that one of the months is called “Scirophorion.” And it is from the other hero that the serpent “Cychreides” took its name—the serpent which, according to Hesiod, was fostered by Cychreus and driven out by Eurylochus because it was damaging the island, and was welcomed to Eleusis by Demeter and made her attendant. And the island was also called Pityussa, from the tree.²³ But the fame of the island is due to the Aiacidae, who ruled over it, and particularly to Aias, the son of Telamon, and also to the fact that near this island Xerxes was defeated by the Greeks in a naval battle and fled to his homeland. And the Aeginetans also shared in the glory of this struggle, since they were neighbors and furnished a considerable fleet. And there is in Salamis a river Bocarus, which is now called Bocalia.

[10] At the present time the island is held by the Athenians, although in early times there was strife between them and the Megarians for its possession. Some say that it was Peisistratus, others Solon, who inserted in the Catalogue of Ships immediately after the verse,

“and Aias brought twelve ships from Salamis,”

²⁴the verse,

“and, bringing them, halted them where the battalions of the Athenians were stationed,”

Hom. Il. 2.558 and then used the poet as a witness that the island had belonged to the Athenians from the beginning. But the critics do not accept this interpretation, because many of the verses bear witness to the contrary. For why is Aias found in the last place in the ship-camp, not with the Athenians, but with the Thessalians under Protesilaüs?

“Here were the ships of Aias and Protesilaüs.”

²⁵And in the Visitation of the troops, Agamemnon

“found Menestheus the charioteer, son of Peteos, standing still; and about him were the Athenians, masters of the battle-cry. And near by stood Odysseus of many wiles, and about him, at his side, the ranks of the Cephallenians.”

²⁶And back again to Aias and the Salaminians,

“he came to the Aïantes,”

²⁷and near them,

“Idomeneus on the other side,”

²⁸not Menestheus. The Athenians, then, are reputed to have cited alleged testimony of this kind from Homer, and the Megarians to have replied with the following parody: “Aias brought ships from Salamis, from Polichne, from Aegeirussa, from Nisaea, and from Tripodes”; these four are Megarian places, and, of these, Tripodes is called Tripodiscium, near which the present marketplace of the Megarians is situated.

[11] Some say that Salamis is foreign to Attica, citing the fact that the priestess of Athena Polias does not touch the fresh cheese made in Attica, but eats only that which is brought from a foreign country, yet uses, among others, that from Salamis. Wrongly, for she eats cheese brought from the other islands that are admittedly attached to Attica, since those who began this custom considered as “foreign” any cheese that was imported by sea. But it seems that in early times the present Salamis was a separate state, and that Megara was a part of Attica. And it is on the seaboard opposite Salamis that the boundaries between the Megarian country and Atthis²⁹ are situated—two mountains which are called Cerata.³⁰

[12] Then one comes to the city Eleusis, in which is the temple of the Eleusinian Demeter, and the mystic chapel which was built by Ictinus, a chapel which is large enough to admit a crowd of spectators. This Ictinus also built the Parthenon on the Acropolis in honor of Athena, Pericles superintending the work. Eleusis is numbered among the demes.

[13] Then one comes to the Thriasian Plain, and the shore and deme bearing the same name. Then to Cape Amphiale and the quarry that lies above it, and to the passage to Salamis, about two stadia wide, across which Xerxes attempted to build a mole,³¹ but was forestalled by the naval battle and the flight of the Persians. Here, too, are the Pharmacussae, two small islands, on the larger of which is to be seen the tomb of Circe.

[14] Above this shore is the mountain called Corydallus, and also the deme Corydalleis. Then one comes to the harbor Phoron, and to Psyttalia,³² a small, deserted, rocky island, which some have called the eyesore of the Peiraeus. And near by, too, is Atalanta, which bears the same name as the island near Euboea and the Locrians, and another island similar to Psyttalia. Then one comes to the Peiraeus, which also is classed among the demes, and to Munychia.

[15] Munychia is a hill which forms a peninsula; and it is hollowed out and undermined³³ in many places, partly by nature and partly by the purpose of man, so that it admits of dwellings; and the entrance to it is by means of a narrow opening³⁴ And beneath the hill lie three harbors. Now in early times Munychia was walled, and covered with habitations in a manner similar to the city of the Rhodians,³⁵ including within the circuit of its walls both the Peiraeus and the harbors, which were full of ship-houses, among which was the arsenal, the work of Philon. And the naval station was sufficient for the four hundred ships, for no fewer than this the Athenians were wont to despatch on expeditions. With this wall were connected the “legs” that stretched down from the city; these were the long walls, forty stadia in length, which connected the city with the Peiraeus. But the numerous wars caused the ruin of the wall and of the fortress of Munychia, and reduced the Peiraeus to a small settlement, round the harbors and the temple of Zeus Soter. The small roofed colonnades of the temple have admirable paintings, the works of famous artists; and its open court has statues. The long walls, also, are torn down, having been destroyed at first by the Lacedaemonians, and later by the Romans, when Sulla took both the Peiraeus and the city by siege.³⁶

[16] The city itself is a rock situated in a plain and surrounded by dwellings. On the rock is the sacred precinct of Athena, comprising both the old temple of Athena Polias,³⁷ in which is the lamp that is never quenched,³⁸ and the Parthenon built by Ictinus, in which is the work in ivory by Pheidias, the Athena. However, if I once began to describe the multitude of things in this city that are lauded and proclaimed far and wide, I fear that I should go too far, and that my work would depart from the purpose I have in view. For the words of Hegesias³⁹ occur to me: “I see the acropolis, and the mark of the huge trident⁴⁰ there. I see Eleusis, and I have become an initiate into its sacred mysteries; yonder is the Leocorium, here is the Theseium; I am unable to point them all out one by one; for Attica is the possession of the gods, who seized it as a sanctuary for themselves, and of the ancestral heroes.” So this writer mentioned only one of the significant things on the acropolis; but Polemon the Periegete⁴¹ wrote four books on the dedicatory offerings on the acropolis alone. Hegesias is proportionately brief in referring to the other parts of the city and to the country; and though he mentions Eleusis, one of the one hundred and seventy demes (or one hundred and seventy-four, as the number is given), he names none of the others.

[17] Most of the demes, if not all, have numerous stories of a character both mythical and historical connected with them; Aphidna, for example, has the rape of Helen by Theseus, the sacking of the place by the Dioscuri and their recovery of their sister; Marathon has the Persian battle; Rhamnus has the statue of Nemesis, which by some is called the work of Diodotus and by others of Agoracritus the Parian, a work which both in grandeur and in beauty is a great success and rivals the works of Pheidias; and so with Deceleia, the base of operations of the Peloponnesians in the Deceleian War; and Phyle, whence Thrasybulus brought the popular party back to the Peiraeus and then to the city. And so, also, in the case of several other demes there are many historical incidents to tell; and, further, the Leocorium and the Theseium have myths connected with them, and so has the Lyceium, and the Olympicum (the Olympium is the same thing), which the king⁴² who dedicated it left half finished at his death. And in like manner also the Academia, and the gardens of the philosophers, and the Odeium, and the colonnade called “Poecile,”⁴³ and the temples in the city containing very many marvellous works of different artists.

[18] The account would be much longer if one should pass in review the early founders of the settlement, beginning with Cecrops; for all writers do not agree about them, as is shown even by the names. For instance, Actice, they say, was derived from Actaeon; and Atthis and Attica from Atthis, the son of Cranaüs, after whom the inhabitants were also called Cranaï; and Mopsopia from Mopsopus; and Ionia from Ion, the son of Xuthus; and Poseidonia and Athens from the gods after whom they were named. And, as has already been said,⁴⁴ the race of the Pelasgi clearly sojourned here too, and on account of their wanderings were called “Pelargi.”⁴⁵

[19] The greater men’s fondness for learning about things that are famous and the greater the number of men who have talked about them, the greater the censure, if one is not master of the historical facts. For example, in his Collection of the Rivers, Callimachus says that it makes him laugh if anyone makes bold to write that the Athenian virgins “draw pure liquid from the Eridanus,”⁴⁶ from which even cattle would hold aloof. Its sources are indeed existent now, with pure and potable water, as they say, outside the Gates of Diochares, as they are called, near the Lyceium;⁴⁷ but in earlier times there was also a fountain near by which was constructed by man, with abundant and excellent water; and even if the water is not so now, why should it be a thing to wonder at, if in early times the water was abundant and pure, and therefore also potable, but in later times underwent a change? However, it is not permitted me to linger over details, since they are so numerous, nor yet, on the other hand, to pass by them all in silence without even mentioning one or another of them in a summary way.

[20] It suffices, then, to add thus much: According to Philochorus, when the country was being devastated, both from the sea by the Carians, and from the land by the Boeotians, who were called Aonians, Cecrops first settled the multitude in twelve cities, the names of which were Cecropia, Tetrapolis, Epacria, Deceleia, Eleusis, Aphidna (also called Aphidnae, in the plural), Thoricus, Brauron, Cytherus, Sphettus, Cephisia.⁴⁸ And at a later time Theseus is said to have united the twelve into one city, that of today. Now in earlier times the Athenians were ruled by kings; and then they changed to a democracy; but tyrants assailed them, Peisistratus and his sons; and later an oligarchy arose, not only that of the four hundred, but also that of the thirty tyrants, who were set over them by the Lacedaemonians; of these they easily rid themselves, and preserved the democracy until the Roman conquest. For even though they were molested for a short time by the Macedonian kings, and were even forced to obey them, they at least kept the general type of their government the same. And some say that they were actually best governed at that time, during the ten years when Cassander reigned over the Macedonians. For although this man is reputed to have been rather tyrannical in his dealings with all others, yet he was kindly disposed towards the Athenians, once he had reduced the city to subjection; for he placed over the citizens Demetrius of Phalerum, one of the disciples of Theophrastus the philosopher, who not only did not destroy the democracy but even improved it, as is made clear in the Memoirs which Demetrius wrote concerning this government. But the envy and hatred felt for oligarchy was so strong that, after the death of Cassander, Demetrius was forced to flee to Egypt; and the statues of him, more than three hundred, were pulled down by the insurgents and melted, and some writers go on to say that they were made into chamber pots. Be that as it may, the Romans, seeing that the Athenians had a democratic government when they took them over, preserved their autonomy and liberty. But when the Mithridatic War came on, tyrants were placed over them, whomever the king wished. The most powerful of these, Aristion, who violently oppressed the city, was punished by Sulla the Roman commander when he took this city by siege, though he pardoned the city itself; and to this day it is free and held in honor among the Romans.

[21] After the Peiraeus comes the deme Phalereis, on the seaboard next to it; then Halimusii, Aexoneis, Alaeeis, Aexonici, and Anagyrasii. Then Thoreis, Lamptreis, Aegilieis, Anaphlystii, Ateneis. These are the demes as far as the cape of Sunium. Between the aforesaid demes is a long cape, the first cape after Aexoneis, Zoster; then another after Thoreis, I mean Astypalaea; off the former of these lies the island Phabra and off the latter the island Eleussa; and also opposite Aexonieis is Hydrussa. And in the neighborhood of Anaphlystus is also the shrine of Pan, and the temple of Aphrodite Colias, at which place, they say, were cast forth by the waves the last wreckage of the ships after the Persian naval battle near Salamis, the wreckage concerning which Apollo predicted “the women of Colias will cook food with the oars.” Off these places, too, is the island Belbina, at no great distance, and also the palisade of Patroclus. But most of these islands are uninhabited.

[22] On doubling the cape of Sunium one comes to Sunium, a noteworthy deme; then to Thoricus; then to a deme called Potamus, whose inhabitants are called Potamii; then to Prasia, to Steiria, to Brauron, where is the temple of the Artemis Brauronia, to Halae Araphenides, where is the temple of Artemis Tauropolus, to Myrrinus, to Probalinthus, and to Marathon, where Miltiades utterly destroyed the forces under Datis the Persian, without waiting for the Lacedaemonians, who came too late because they wanted the full moon. Here, too, is the scene of the myth of the Marathonian bull, which was slain by Theseus. After Marathon one comes to Tricorynthus; then to Rhamnus, the sanctuary of Nemesis; then to Psaphis, the land of the Oropians. In the neighborhood of Psaphis is the Amphiaraeium, an oracle once held in honor, where in his flight Amphiaraüs, as Sophocles says, “with four-horse chariot, armour and all, was received by a cleft that was made⁴⁹ in the Theban dust.”⁵⁰ Oropus has often been disputed territory; for it is situated on the common boundary of Attica and Boeotia. Off this coast are islands: off Thoricus and Sunium lies the island Helene; it is rugged and deserted, and in its length of about sixty stadia extends parallel to the coast. This island, they say, is mentioned by the poet where Alexander⁵¹ says to Helen: “Not even when first I snatched thee from lovely Lacedaemon and sailed with thee on the seafaring ships, and in the island Cranaë joined with thee in love and couch”;⁵² for he calls Cranaë⁵³ the island now called Helene from the fact that the intercourse took place there. And after Helene comes Euboea, which lies off the next stretch of coast; it likewise is narrow and long and in length lies parallel to the mainland, like Helene. The voyage from Sunium to the southerly promontory of Euboea, which is called Leuce Acte, is three hundred stadia. However, I shall discuss Euboea later ;⁵⁴ but as for the demes in the interior of Attica, it would be tedious to recount them because of their great number.

[23] Of the mountains, those which are most famous are Hymettus, Brilessus, and Lycabettus; and also Parnes and Corydallus. Near the city are most excellent quarries of marble, the Hymettian and Pentelic. Hymettus also produces the best honey. The silver mines in Attica were originally valuable, but now they have failed. Moreover, those who worked them, when the mining yielded only meager returns, melted again the old refuse, or dross, and were still able to extract from it pure silver, since the workmen of earlier times had been unskillful in heating the ore in furnaces. But though the Attic honey is the best in the world, that in the country of the silver mines is said to be much the best of all, the kind which is called acapniston,⁵⁵ from the mode of its preparation.

[24] The rivers of Attica are the Cephissus, which has its source in the deme Trinemeis; it flows through the plain (hence the allusions to the “bridge” and the “bridge-railleries “⁵⁶) and then through the legs of the walls which extend from the city to the Peiraeus; it empties into the Phaleric Gulf, being a torrential stream most of the time, although in summer it decreases and entirely gives out. And such is still more the case with the Ilissus, which flows from the other part of the city into the same coast, from the region above Agra⁵⁷ and the Lyceium, and from the fountain which is lauded by Plato in the Phaedrus.⁵⁸ So much for Attica.

Notes on the current edition

Geography

1. The peninsulas described by Strabo, are:

1. The Peloponnesus, properly so called, bounded by the Isthmus of Corinth.

2. The peninsula bounded by a line drawn from Pagae to Nisaea, and including the above.

3. The peninsula bounded by a line drawn from the recess of the Crissaean Gulf, properly so called, (the Bay of Salona,) to Thermopylae, and includes the two first.

4. The peninsula bounded by a line drawn from the Ambracic Gulf to Thermopylae and the Maliac Gulf, and includes the three former.

5. The peninsula bounded by a line drawn from the Ambracic Gulf to the recess of the Thermaic Gulf, and contains the former four peninsulas.

2. These words are transposed from after the word Epicnemidii, as suggested by Cramer.

3. The Crissaean Gulf, properly so called, is the modern Bay of Salona. But probably Strabo (or rather Eudoxus, whose testimony he alleges) intended to comprehend, under the denomination of Crissaean, the whole gulf, more commonly called Corinthian by the ancients, that is, the gulf which commenced at the strait between Rhium and Antirrhium, and of which the Crissaean Gulf was only a portion. The text in the above passage is very corrupt.

4. From Sunium to the Isthmus.

5. Libadostani.

6. N. W. by W., 1/4 W.

7. Literally, by legs on each side. Nisaea was united to Megara, as the Piraeus to Athens, by two lone walls.

8. Il. ii. 546.

9. Il. xiii. 685.

10. See note to vol. i. page 329.

11. This place is unknown.

12. From a lost tragedy of Sophocles.

13. Probably interpolated.

14. Il. ii. 557.

15. Il. xiii. 681.

16. Il. iv. 327.

17. Il. iv. 327.

18. Il. iv. 273.

19. Il. iii. 230.

20. Il. ii. 557.

21. These horns, according to Wheler, are two pointed rocks on the summit of the mountain situated between Eleusis and Megara, On one of these rocks is a tower, called by the modern Greeks Cerata or Kerata-Pyrga.

22. Lepsina.

23. σηκὸς.

24. κατεσκεύασεν.

25. ἐποίησε. Ictinus was also the architect of the temple of Apollo Epicurius near Phigalia in Arcadia.

26. Thria.

27. Scaramandra; from the height above Aegaleos, Xerxes witnessed the battle of Salamis.

28. Megala Kyra, Micra Kyra.

29. τὸ ἅστυ, the Asty, was the upper town, in opposition to the lower town, of Piraeus. See Smith’s Dictionary for a very able and interesting article, Athenoe; also Kiepert’s Atlas von Hellas.

30. Sylla took Athens, after a long and obstinate siege, on the 1st March, B. C. 86. The city was given up to rapine and plunder.

31. Strabo thus accounts for his meagre description of the public buildings at Athens, for which, otherwise, he seems to have had no inclination.

32. Hegesias was an artist of great celebrity, and a contemporary of Pheidias. The statues of Castor and Pollux by Hegesias, are supposed by Winkelman to be the same as those which now stand on the stairs leading to the Capitol, but this is very doubtful. Smith.

33. In the Erechtheium.

34. The Heroum, or temple dedicated to the daughters of Leos, who were offered up by their father as victims to appease the wrath of Minerva in a time of pestilence. The position of the temple is doubtfully placed by Smith below the Areiopagus.

35. The well-known temple of Theseus being the best preserved of all the monuments of Greece.

36. An eminent geographer. He made extensive journeys through Greece to collect materials for his geographical works, and as a collector of inscriptions on votive offerings and columns, he was one of the earlier contributors to the Greek Anthology. Smith.

37. The Odeium was a kind of theatre erected by Pericles in the Ceramic quarter of the city, for the purpose of holding musical meetings. The roof, supported by columns, was constructed out of the wreck of the Persian fleet conquered at Salamis. There was also the Odeium of Regilla, but this was built in the time of the Antonines.

38. The country was called Actica from Actaeos. Parian Chronicle.

39. Demetrius Phalereus was driven from Athens, 307 B. C., whence he retired to Thebes. The death of Casander took place 298 B. C.

40. Aratus, the Achaean general, 245 B. C., drove from Attica the Lacedaemonian garrisons, and restored liberty to the Athenians.

41. B. C. 87.

42. C. Halikes.

43. Falkadi.

44. Elisa.

45. Raphti

46. Il. iii. 443.

47. Macronisi.

48. Negropont.

49. From C. Colonna to C. Mantelo.

50. Smith gives an alphabetical list of 160 demi.

51. Monte San Giorgio.

52. As Mount Hymettus was always celebrated for producing the best honey, it would appear from this passage that there were silver mines in it. It appears however that the Athenians had failed to discover silver in Hymettus. It is not impossible that Strabo has adopted literally some proverb or saying of the miners, such as, Ours is the best honey.

Strabo Geography 9.1

Hans Claude Hamilton (Translator), William Falconer (Translator)

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